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92 Robert Parker
The earliest harvest on record at Penfolds, the 1983 vintage was characterized by devastating bush fires, followed by enormous flooding in March. A blend of 94% Shiraz and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine has a surprisingly low pH (3.41) for a Grange, with an amazing 7.1 grams of acid per liter. The wine still shows considerable tannin in its flavors, but enormously powerful, rich, high acid characteristics. It is somewhat of a paradox to taste. Five years ago, it was exhibiting huge, powerful, concentrated flavors, but also high acid and high tannin. The wine seems very youthful, very backward, and still in need of at least another 4-5 years of cellaring. Whether it will all come together in a seamless classic remains open to conjecture. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020.
90 Wine Spectator
A brooding giant. The rich Port-like flavors are almost too intense for balance, but it should come around with time. Drink in 2010 to '25.--Penfolds Grange vertical
Producer
Penfolds
Since the renaissance of Australian wine in the early 1950s, Penfolds has distinguished themselves early on as one of the most important forerunners. Max Schubert became the Chief Winemaker of the almost 200-year-old estate in 1948, beginning his journey to create Bordeaux inspired wines. Located in South Australia, their key vineyards are spread across the best viticulture regions: Adelaide, the Barossa Valley, the Clare Valley, Coonawarra, the Limestone Coast and McLaren Vale. Responsible for Australia’s most iconic wine, called Grange, which remains at the pinnacle of the estate’s production, has had over five consistent decades of promising quality. Blended primarily of Barossa and McLaren Vale Syrah, with a bit of Cabernet, Grange is aged in American oak, and the end result is a complete and powerful wine, with a strong vocation for aging. Penfolds produces a handful of other top reds, each is more complex than the next, and with fruit coming from selected vineyard sites the wines are characteristically representative of their origins.