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Testamatta 2020 600cl

IGT | Tuscany | Italy
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Critics scores
95 Robert Parker
Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch
Producer
Bibi Graetz
Firstly, an artist and graduate of the Academia dell’Arte in Florence, Bibi Graetz started making wine in the late 1990s and has since become one of the Tuscany’s most inspired winemakers. Born and raised in Italy and without any formal training, Graetz produces wine at his family home in Fiesole, a castle called Castello di Vincigliata. He decided early on to focus on the production of native Tuscan varieties, mostly Sangiovese, but also Colorino and Canaiolo and a tiny bit of Malvasia Nera and Moscato Nero. The fruit is sourced from old-age vines (ranging from 30 to 60-years-old) around the Chianti Classico area, including Maremma, the island of Giglio and Montalcino. Vinification is carried out in open fermenters and the resulting wines are inky-black red in color exposing a spectacular range of intensity and ingenuity. His flagship wine, Testamatta, which roughly translates to “Hot Head”, is made entirely from old-vine Sangiovese and is a powerful red with notes of cherry and tobacco. Another fascinating feature of his wines are that all of their labels are designed by Graetz himself, ultimately inspired by the Tuscan sun. From artist to cult winemaker, Graetz’s wines get better and better with every vintage, they are certainly top collectible Tuscan wines.