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Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet 2007 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côtes de Beaune | Borgogna | Francia
CHF 994.50
Punteggi dei critici
94 Robert Parker
The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.
94 Robert Parker
The Leflaive 2007 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet smells of lily, heliotrope, and narcissus, white peach, pineapple, and toasted nuts. With infectious primary juiciness of ripe fruit accompanied by liquid floral perfume on the palate, and transparent to saline and chalky nuances, this is creamy and rich without sacrificing refreshment or a sense of lift and delicacy. For all of its alluring perfume and suggestions of sweetness, the finish here is remarkably dominated by saline, stony, and savory yet still mineral characteristics. This is a bit less dynamic than the Pucelles but at least for now richer. It strikes me as another candidate for a decade of enjoyment. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s.
Produttore
Domaine Leflaive
Oggi Domaine Leflaive è nelle mani della quarta generazione, Brice de La Morandière, il nipote del fondatore Joseph Leflaive. Negli anni '20, Joseph si prese la grande responsabilità di reimpiantare, ampliare e migliorare le viti di famiglia a Puligny-Montrachet. Accelerando negli anni Sessanta e Settanta sotto la direzione di Vincent, figlio di Joseph, la fama della tenuta è esplosa: concentrandosi maggiormente sulla qualità, da quel momento i vini sono diventati estremamente ricercati. Ogni generazione ha portato successi. Con la figlia di Vincent, la defunta Anne-Claude, la tenuta è divenuta un produttore biodinamico, enfatizzando ulteriormente la produzione già di alta qualità. I metodi biodinamici aiutano a riflettere gli elementi del terroir, che si svelano nei vini equilibrati e strutturati. Conosciuto come il miglior produttore di vini bianchi di Borgogna, i suoi vini hanno una brillante limpidezza e purezza, con caratteristiche complesse.