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Bâtard Montrachet 2016 75cl

AOC Grand Cru | Côtes de Beaune | Borgogna | Francia
CHF 810.75
Punteggi dei critici
96 Robert Parker
The 2016 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was not too affected by frost according to Benoît, as the vines were partly protected by the wall that runs along the top of the vineyard toward Montrachet. It has a well-defined bouquet with expressive scents of green apple, fresh pear and a slight touch of mint, conveying a sense of coiled-up energy and frisson. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, just a little honeyed in texture with quite an intense, spicy finish that leaves you with a positive impression. You know what...this might well turn out to be the best wine from Sauzet this year. Bravo.<br/>Despite a small miscommunication surrounding the timing of our appointment, winemaker Benoît Riffault hastily prepared the barrel samples of 2016. He always seems chipper, with a smile on his face, despite confronting the prospect of frost damage in 2016 that turned out more severe in 2017. “In 2016 there is no Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet or Haut Côtes de Beaune or Puligny Folatières because of the frost,” Benoît lamented. “It was not an easy vintage. The first day of the big frost was crazy, and then the second two frosts affected the village crus. The second problem was mildew pressure during the spring and summer, which altogether means we are 40% down in quantity. We started picking on 20 September and harvested over six days. We did not have to do much sorting, but the difficulty was deciding the exact date to pick in each parcel. The wines are matured in 20% to 30% new oak.” I thought that this was a solid, quite consistent set of wines from Sauzet. Since most of their holdings lie in Puligny, they found some reprieve from the frost thanks to cloud cover the following morning, unlike their neighbors in Chassagne. With the exception of their Truffière and Champ Gain that both seemed to have a mouse on their faces, the premier crus were pleasingly consistent. Among the three grand crus, the Bâtard-Montrachet put in a strong performance and in fact, I found more tension and concentration here compared to either the Chevalier-Montrachet and Montrachet itself.<br/>
Produttore
Domaine Etienne Sauzet
Etienne Sauzet creò la casa vinicola che porta il suo nome a metà del XX secolo. La tenuta era costituita da circa 12 ettari di vigneti ed era nota come una delle grandi proprietà vinicole di Puligny. Nel 1974, alla morte di Etienne, l’attività fu rilevata dal genero Gérard, che spinse ulteriormente la qualità della produzione e la reputazione del Domaine. Nel 1991 la tenuta fu suddivisa per motivi di eredità tra i tre nipoti di Etienne, uno dei quali, Jean-Marc Boillot, decise di staccare la propria parte per creare una propria Casa vinicola, lasciando alla tenuta originaria 8 ettari. Oggigiorno, producono una miriade di denominazioni con uve sia proprie che acquistate, tutte da Puligny o Chassagne. Le uve comprate arrivano da tre fonti: i vigneti originali Sauzet, i vigneti acquistati da Gérard e i vigneti acquistati più di recente dalla figlia Emilie con il marito, Benoît Riffault. La tenuta riesce a gestire tutti i vigneti come se fossero propri. Dal 2006, i vigneti sono lavorati in agricoltura biologica e dal 2010 si seguono le pratiche biodinamiche. L’aver conservato la gestione dei vigneti ha permesso alla tenuta di raggiungere livelli incredibili conservando la qualità dei vini. Anche il loro schietto Bourgogne Blanc può essere uno schianto. Oggi la gestione è affidata a Gérard, aiutato sia da Emilie, sia da Benoît.