Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve des Célestins 1999 75cl

Burly-edged tannins pump through this heavy-weight, with roasted chestnut, game, licorice, tar and stewed currant and prune fruit. Steel-plated finish thanks to the tannins, but look closely and you'll see a river of acidity pumping through, too. Drink now through 2025.

Henri Bonneau released the 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins (one of the finest wines of the vintage) in 2004. Although slightly austere and closed at present, it offers a wonderful bouquet of smoked meats, ground pepper, sweet kirsch, currants, blood, herbs, and God knows what else. Rich and medium to full-bodied, but tannic and closed, it requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should drink well for two decades.